Nov 2006

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The wind had picked up in Osaka. A cold breeze swept across the landscape. A low howl moaned through the hole in the window; the gap left by the air conditioner's exhaust.

K and I wore layers; shirts, jumpers, jackets and coats, hands hidden in gloves, heads swallowed in beanies. We were heading to the bay area where the wind would be wild and vicious as it ran across the water. Today we needed an indoor trip, some protection from the elements.

We huddle through the crowds and hopped from train to train out to Kaiyukan, one of the worlds largest aquariums. We swiftly made our way from the station to the giant red blue building stopping only to watch a juggler perform his skill; flaming torches dancing through the air for our amusement.

Osaka Aquarium

We pay the 2000yen entry fee and proceed into the building. A corridor presents itself. The walls and roof are glass, fish swim above and beside us as; sharks and rays paces the walls.

Sharks and fish

The exhibits line the outside walls; an otter enclosure, dolphins diving up and down, penguins crowd around a handler throwing out petite fish ...

... jelly fish appear to glow ...

... large spider crabs standing 60cms tall in a barren lunar landscape; eerie and silent ...

... a large tank contains hundreds of fish swimming around and around and around in a hypnotic silver parade ...

... and as we spiral into the depths of the building, a single gigantic tank forms the core. Schools of fish spin around. Sharks patrol the edges. Sting rays glide, manta rays fly. A whale shark over 4 meters long gracefully circles the tank like a star, it long body shimmers in the flashes of camera and phones

The distant hills are transforming from a pale green. Now they are mottled, with orange and red like a giant sleeping alleycat on the horizon.

Minoo is a small hot spring area to the north of Osaka. In the mountains between Kyoto and Kobe, theres a small 2KM hike to a pictureque waterfall; it scenery recently gracing the face of the local train passes.

Its a peaceful Tuesday with nothing to do but enjoy the walk and the leaves.

The train ride was long and mostly silent. K. and I bounced our way through Osaka - Hankyu line, Midosuji subway, Nakai-Koya line. We were heading for Koya-san, a tableland area high in the moutains of Wakayama prefecture; its thick forest, clean air and isolation providing the perfect home for the headquaters of the Shingon School of Esoteric Buddhism.

The two hour train ride transported us back through time. The bustle of Juso station, traffic lights flashing, bicycles screaming, and cigarette butts bursting through the pavement replaced by rice fields and trees, neighbours walking their dogs, dandelions lining the roads.

At the end of the line we switched to a cable car for the last 5 minutes of the journey ...

Cable car Ext

Cable car Int

... and then a bus winded along the narrow roads to take us to the Okuno-in-mae stop. A mountainside of tall cypress trees hugged the scenery. We grabbed a small bite to eat and ventured into the forest.

The trees loomed large overhead, blocking the weak autumn sun. Slowly
granite and stone graves began to appear.

Graveyard View

We ventured further and further. Moss clung to headstones and tori gates.

Statue Mountain

As the light streamed in between the trees, a swirl of blue-grey incensed danced through the forest. We followed it across a bridge, inscribed wooden plagues resting peacefully in the water offering a silent pray for those who had drowned.

A line of bronzed Buddhas rested on its bank. A splash of water and a bow was offered to each one.

Bronze Buddha

We left the graveyard and headed to the centre of this 7000 people village. Autumn leaves burst through the green foliage like fireworks exploding around us.

Autumn Fence

At Danjoogaran, we entered the great pagoda (Dai-too), cleansed ourselves with rubbing incense and stared at the cosmic Buddha statue. A small group of elderly pilgrims came in and their leader led through a small pray and chant.

As the sun began to fade, a cool wind wandered in from the south. The trees began to sing and sway. We walked to another 4 temples, enjoying the leaves and prayers and history.

Tree and Stone

Fire Tree

Autumn Water

And as the light began to fade, the tree colours dulled and moved to the west. As we caught the train back, the sky turn red, pink and grey as the stars of the Osakan skyline grew brighter and finally enveloped us.