Koya-san

The train ride was long and mostly silent. K. and I bounced our way through Osaka - Hankyu line, Midosuji subway, Nakai-Koya line. We were heading for Koya-san, a tableland area high in the moutains of Wakayama prefecture; its thick forest, clean air and isolation providing the perfect home for the headquaters of the Shingon School of Esoteric Buddhism.

The two hour train ride transported us back through time. The bustle of Juso station, traffic lights flashing, bicycles screaming, and cigarette butts bursting through the pavement replaced by rice fields and trees, neighbours walking their dogs, dandelions lining the roads.

At the end of the line we switched to a cable car for the last 5 minutes of the journey ...

Cable car Ext

Cable car Int

... and then a bus winded along the narrow roads to take us to the Okuno-in-mae stop. A mountainside of tall cypress trees hugged the scenery. We grabbed a small bite to eat and ventured into the forest.

The trees loomed large overhead, blocking the weak autumn sun. Slowly
granite and stone graves began to appear.

Graveyard View

We ventured further and further. Moss clung to headstones and tori gates.

Statue Mountain

As the light streamed in between the trees, a swirl of blue-grey incensed danced through the forest. We followed it across a bridge, inscribed wooden plagues resting peacefully in the water offering a silent pray for those who had drowned.

A line of bronzed Buddhas rested on its bank. A splash of water and a bow was offered to each one.

Bronze Buddha

We left the graveyard and headed to the centre of this 7000 people village. Autumn leaves burst through the green foliage like fireworks exploding around us.

Autumn Fence

At Danjoogaran, we entered the great pagoda (Dai-too), cleansed ourselves with rubbing incense and stared at the cosmic Buddha statue. A small group of elderly pilgrims came in and their leader led through a small pray and chant.

As the sun began to fade, a cool wind wandered in from the south. The trees began to sing and sway. We walked to another 4 temples, enjoying the leaves and prayers and history.

Tree and Stone

Fire Tree

Autumn Water

And as the light began to fade, the tree colours dulled and moved to the west. As we caught the train back, the sky turn red, pink and grey as the stars of the Osakan skyline grew brighter and finally enveloped us.